Monday, June 18, 2012

Famiglia

Quick Notes: 
- If any of my family is reading this and I got any of the family associations wrong, let me know.  This was downloaded through some broken English and Italian and some sign language. 
- My camera battery died after my first night and I left the charger in Rome so most pictures were taken from my camera phone so sorry for the poor quality.  To see all of my photos from Campo, Sulmona and Pacentro pictures, click here.

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In the states, when someone is coming into town they usually make arrangements ahead to either get a hotel or clear it with their relatives a few months ahead.  And usually the family has to check their schedule to make sure those dates work well for them, etc, etc. When I emailed my family in Italy after not having seen them for 14 years they said "Okay, what time do you arrive?  We will pick you up. You're only staying for 3 days?"

Max and I were on our way to visit the family when I visited him in December of 2010 when one of the trains we had to catch after traveling for four hours from Perugia was delayed.  We finally read the dreaded words sciopero, strike.  The happens more frequently thank you would imagine in Italy and for us it basically meant there was no way we were getting to Sumlona that day.  I had to leave the next day from Rome and Max shortly after. Unfortunately, there was no way we were going to see the family that trip.  It was a big part of the reason I wanted to return so badly.  When you have family that ties you to your past, I think it's so important to do what you can to stay in touch with them... especially when they are as wonderful as this family!

That being said, I made sure Campo di Giove was on my agenda early during my stay here in Roma.  After a few emails and phone calls, I confirmed with Rita (Rita's father was the son of my Great Grandfather's sister - I think) that she would pick me up from the train station in Sulmona (for a map of Rome - Sulmona - Campo di Giove, click here).  


Sulmona is the closest large town to Campo di Giove (approximately 25,000 people).  It's in the center of a beautiful valley surrounded by green and lush mountains.  It's known for it's confetti.  When Rita told me this, I pictured bags of American-style confetti being sold in every store.  I guess I never knew those delicious candy-covered almonds we used to get at Italian weddings were called confetti.
View of Sulmona from Campo

Confetti - delicious!!

Confetti store in Sulmona
Campo di Giove is the city where my great grandfather, Vincenzo, and great grandmother, Nicola (Cola aka "Grandma Chicken") lived and where my grandmother, Freda and her two brothers, Antonio and Vittorio were born before coming to America.  After a beautiful drive up the winding hills, you pass the small town of Cansano, where Cola lived until she met Vince, and then reach the bella Campo di Giove. 






I think I forgot just how beautiful this place is.  It has a very close resemblance to Evergreen (with the exception of the centuries old village in the center) with dense green pines stopping at the tree lines and rolling hills for miles.  Campo is 2,360 meters (7,742 feet) from sea level.  There are only about 900 full time residents but is flooded with tourists and visitors in the summer and is a winter ski resort destination (4 chair lifts).

If you take an alternate route to Campo, you pass through the amazingly picturesque Pacentro.  Pacentro is 2,133 meters from sea level and has been a mountain retreat since Roman Times.  I learned this is where Vince (my great grandfather) and his father were born.  Fun fact: Pacentro is also known for being the village of origin of  the grandparents of Madonna (the entertainer, not baby Jesus's mother). 

Pacentro
Pacentro with Sulmona in the background.
Besides being in an insanely picturesque, and tranquillo city, I cannot explain how wonderful it was to spend time with my family. I stayed with Giacinto and Rita and their two boys, Jacopo and Emilio.  Jacopo was maybe 4 or 5 when we came to visit as a family 14 years ago and he somehow remembered Max's (who was 10 then) little stuffed dog, Rex. Rita speaks outstanding English for not having had much practice over the years (Rita's mother moved her and her sister, Saundra, who lives in Sulmona now, back to Campo when they were 10 and 7).  It's been 40 years and I was thankful to have Rita there to speak with because for the most part, most people there speak zero English, niente.  Giacinto and I began to communicate quite well in broken Italian and sign language.  He loved showing off his beautiful town (his parents were from Campo).  And if you take a look at the full picture album, he insisted I was in every photo showing their beautiful home... decked out in my PJs.

Everyone in the town knows each other and the main piazza is where everyone goes to meet in the morning, after siesta and after dinner.  Kids are free to do what they want and can safely go anywhere around town.  The old men gather at the pub to watch il calcio, the game (football of course), and the old women gather on benches and catch up all day long.  I met the lovely ladies below who wished me "Salute Obama" as I walked away. :)

Piazza in Campo di Giove

Gli Uomini (the men) in the bar. 

"Salute Obama!"
The best part for me was that many of the older residents knew and remember Zia Cola, aunt Cola (my grandma Chicken), fondly. Even this sweet woman in Sulmona who Saundra introduced me to was a dear friend of Cola's.


I'm not sure if places like this exist in the US, but to me it felt like a step back in time.  I had such a wonderful time with my family and I can't wait to go back again while I'm here this summer.  It brings me such a sense of calm and comfort knowing I have family so close while I'm thousands of miles from home.

Rita, Jacopo, Giacinto and Emilio (the boys were not into posing).

Jacopo, Rita, Saundra and Aldo
Rita in her delicious yogurt shop!
Jacopo and his friends.
Me and the boys.
 Again, to see all of my photos from Campo, Sulmona and Pacentro pictures, click here.

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