Quick Notes:
- If any of my family is reading this and I got any of the family associations wrong, let me know. This was downloaded through some broken English and Italian and some sign language.
- My camera battery died after my first night and I left the charger in Rome so most pictures were taken from my camera phone so sorry for the poor quality. To see all of my photos from Campo, Sulmona and Pacentro pictures, click here.
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In the
states, when someone is coming into town they usually make arrangements ahead
to either get a hotel or clear it with their relatives a few months ahead.
And usually the family has to check their schedule to make sure those
dates work well for them, etc, etc. When I emailed my family in Italy after not
having seen them for 14 years they said "Okay, what time do you arrive?
We will pick you up. You're only staying for 3 days?"
Max and I were on our way to visit the family when I visited him
in December of 2010 when one of the trains we had to catch after traveling for
four hours from Perugia was delayed. We finally read the dreaded words sciopero, strike. The
happens more frequently thank you would imagine in Italy and for us it
basically meant there was no way we were getting to Sumlona that day. I
had to leave the next day from Rome and Max shortly after. Unfortunately, there
was no way we were going to see the family that trip. It was a big part
of the reason I wanted to return so badly. When you have family that ties
you to your past, I think it's so important to do what you can to stay in
touch with them... especially when they are as wonderful as this family!
That being said, I made sure Campo di Giove was on my agenda early during my stay here in Roma. After a few emails and phone calls, I confirmed
with Rita (Rita's father was the son of my Great Grandfather's sister - I
think) that she would pick me up from the train station in Sulmona (for a map
of Rome - Sulmona - Campo di Giove, click here).
Sulmona is
the closest large town to Campo di Giove (approximately 25,000 people).
It's in the center of a beautiful valley surrounded by green and lush
mountains. It's known for it's confetti.
When Rita told me this, I pictured bags of American-style confetti being sold in every
store. I guess I never knew those delicious candy-covered almonds we used
to get at Italian weddings were called confetti.
Confetti - delicious!! |
Confetti store in Sulmona |
Campo di Giove is the city where my great grandfather, Vincenzo, and
great grandmother, Nicola (Cola aka "Grandma Chicken") lived and where my grandmother, Freda and her
two brothers, Antonio and Vittorio were born before coming to America.
After a beautiful drive up the winding hills, you pass the small town of
Cansano, where Cola lived until she met Vince, and then reach the bella Campo
di Giove.
I think I forgot just how beautiful this place is. It has a
very close resemblance to Evergreen (with the exception of the centuries old village in the center) with dense green pines stopping at the tree
lines and rolling hills for miles. Campo is 2,360 meters (7,742 feet)
from sea level. There are only about 900 full time residents but is
flooded with tourists and visitors in the summer and is a winter ski resort
destination (4 chair lifts).
If you take an alternate route to Campo, you pass through the
amazingly picturesque Pacentro.
Pacentro is 2,133 meters from sea level and has been a mountain retreat
since Roman Times. I learned this is where Vince (my great grandfather)
and his father were born. Fun fact: Pacentro is also known for being the village of origin of the grandparents of Madonna (the entertainer, not baby Jesus's mother).
Pacentro |
Pacentro with Sulmona in the background. |
Besides being in an insanely picturesque, and tranquillo city, I cannot explain how wonderful
it was to spend time with my family. I stayed with Giacinto and Rita and their
two boys, Jacopo and Emilio. Jacopo was maybe 4 or 5 when we came to
visit as a family 14 years ago and he somehow remembered Max's (who was 10
then) little stuffed dog, Rex. Rita speaks outstanding English for not having
had much practice over the years (Rita's mother moved her and her sister,
Saundra, who lives in Sulmona now, back to Campo when they were 10 and 7).
It's been 40 years and I was thankful to have Rita there to speak with
because for the most part, most people there speak zero English, niente. Giacinto and I
began to communicate quite well in broken Italian and sign language. He
loved showing off his beautiful town (his parents were from Campo). And if you take a look at the full picture album, he insisted I was in every photo showing their beautiful home... decked out in my PJs.
Everyone in the town knows each other and the main piazza is where
everyone goes to meet in the morning, after siesta and after dinner. Kids
are free to do what they want and can safely go anywhere around town. The
old men gather at the pub to watch il
calcio, the game (football of course), and the old women gather on benches and catch up all day
long. I met the lovely ladies below who wished me "Salute Obama"
as I walked away. :)
Piazza in Campo di Giove |
Gli Uomini (the men) in the bar. |
"Salute Obama!" |
The best part for me was that many of the older residents knew and remember Zia Cola, aunt Cola (my grandma Chicken), fondly. Even
this sweet woman in Sulmona who Saundra introduced me to was a dear friend of
Cola's.
I'm not sure if places like this exist in the US, but to me it
felt like a step back in time. I had such a wonderful time with my family
and I can't wait to go back again while I'm here this summer. It brings
me such a sense of calm and comfort knowing I have family so close while I'm
thousands of miles from home.
Rita, Jacopo, Giacinto and Emilio (the boys were not into posing). |
Jacopo, Rita, Saundra and Aldo |
Rita in her delicious yogurt shop! |
Jacopo and his friends. |
Me and the boys. |
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